Its rise to the Olympus of gastronomy has been dizzying. In just a few years, the Danish restaurant Alchemist — which opened its impressive 2,200 square meter location on the outskirts of Copenhagen in 2019 — was ranked one of the 10 best restaurants in the world by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.
The restaurant led by chef Rasmus Munk first entered the list in 2021, coming in 58th spot. By the next year, it had risen to 18th place. And in 2023, it was ranked No. 5. Its rise in the controversial yet influential ranking system has been lightning-fast. There were even rumors that it would take the top spot, but this year, it instead dropped to No. 8, with the crown going to the Barcelona restaurant Disfrutar.
The rumors it would be named the best restaurant in the world began to circulate when Spanish chef Ferran Adrià declared last February that Alchemist was the “hottest” restaurant in the world. He also said that only Munk’s holistic cuisine concept was at today’s vanguard.
Rasmus Munk, 38, got his start in the kitchen by chance, as his family’s interest in gastronomy did not go beyond Friday dinner at an American hamburger joint. He has said many times that he found his vocation thanks to a friend who encouraged him to enroll in a cooking school. He took advantage of the experience — in which he discovered a whole world of flavors and products — and decided to continue improving his skills.
His first job was at a canteen. Later, he worked at the restaurant Nørlunds Gæstebud, with chef Martin Knudsen, where he became acquainted with haute cuisine and new Nordic cuisine. Munk was 23 when the Spanish restaurant elBulli — which was five-times named the best restaurant in the world — closed its doors in 2011. He wanted to go to the restaurant in Cala Montjoi before it closed, but he was not able to get a table. What he was able to do was devour everything that had been published about the legendary restaurant and Ferran Adrià, its head chef.
In 2011, Munk won the Nations Cup for Young Chefs and went to London with two goals: to learn English and continue working in restaurants. In 2013, he returned to Denmark, where he landed the position of head chef at Treetop in Vejle. A year later, he won the Young Chef of the Year award at the White Guide digital awards. And in 2015, he opened the first Alchemist. It was a smaller and more modest restaurant than the current one, but still stood out with its creative and ambitious menu, with dishes designed to reflect on social issues such as ocean pollution, animal abuse, child exploitation and food waste, while inviting the diner to enjoy the game.
The big leap came in 2019, when the wealthy businessman Lars Seier Christensen — the owner of the Geranium restaurant, which also reached No. 1 on the aforementioned list — tempted him to move to a large space in Refshaleøen, a former industrial site in the port of Copenhagen, which housed the workshops of the Royal Danish Theatre. The new Alchemist — spread out over three levels and 2,200 square meters, with an 18-meter dome — offers a menu of 50 impressions, divided into several acts, which are served in different settings. The new concept has been awarded with two Michelin stars.
Munk’s goal with holistic cuisine is to mix elements from the world of gastronomy, theater and art, as well as science, technology and design, “in order to create an all-encompassing and dramaturgically driven sensory experience.” The experience starts with flavors, the ingredients, the preparation and how the food is enjoyed, but goes well beyond the plate.
A menu costs €724 ($775) excluding drinks. Diners can also choose different wine and non-alcoholic pairings. But for The Sommelier Table experience — which focuses on wines from iconic producers, and includes coffee, tea and a digestif — the cost is €2,065 ($2,210). The restaurant recommends dinners embrace the experience with an open mind. It also warns: “Alchemist might not be the right choice for an evening of business discussions or that first nervous date.”
The experience lasts between four and six hours, and according to Alchemist, the only prerequisites are curiosity and presence of mind.
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